Ghana Team Journal


Patience Pays Off with Kente and Monkeys

Friday, February 17, 2012

Our weekend excursion began with delays and frustration. At least frustration on Judy’s part as she felt responsible for the tour. After a call to the Tour Company we learned that our driver, Wisdom, who left Accra at 10 AM (so he wouldn’t be late!!) was caught in a terrible back-up of traffic from a motorway accident. We waited patiently -- what else could we do? -- and Wisdom finally arrived at 2 PM. We quickly loaded up our Chevrolet Tracker and headed out. A quick stop at a gas station in Atimpoku to top-off the tank, and to buy sodas and wine, and we
crossed the bridge and headed north. Wisdom is not only a wonderful driver, but a terrific story-teller and travel guide. He shared history and legends with us, keeping us well-entertained as we drove along.

The drive was very different from the other drives we’ve had this past week. The towns were smaller, with open land or wooded areas between communities. We passed through a village
that specialized in making pillows with the residue from the textile factory in Akosombo. Another village had coffins lined up under shelters waiting to be purchased, and a third village had hut after hut of drums of all shapes and sizes.

First stop for us was in the village of Tafe Abuipe, a community where all families, starting at age seven, work in the Kente Weaving industry. A short walk from the “Welcome Center” took us into the heart of the village. Looms were set up outside homes and we saw children, ages 11 through 15, sitting in front of the looms weaving faster than our eyes could focus. Back and forth, up and down, the quick fingers flew as the feet worked the floor pedals.

While walking from the center of the village area we cooed at every little child, and called to every goat, kid and chicken. And then we saw it. Amazing! A mother goat JUST gave birth to two babies. There in the path was the placenta and afterbirth, and the little kids were struggling to stand up. With umbilical cords hanging down, within seconds they were under Mama Goat suckling away while she licked them clean and dry.

We left Tafe Abuipe in a hurry as it was getting late and we wanted to get to the Tafe Atome Monkey Sanctuary. With gray skies and occasional thunder we sped along the road, dodging some big fat raindrops for a few minutes. As we pulled in Debbie frantically was searching for her I-phone. The purse was dumped onto the seat, but no phone. The floor was searched, but no phone. She realized that she probably left it in Tafe Abuipe and Wisdom offered to drive back to pick it up while we visited with the monkeys. Just as Wisdom was preparing to get into the
car a motorcycle pulled up and the guide from Tafe Abuipe hopped off with the bright pink phone. A huge hug was offered to him, plus 20 cedis which he asked for, and all was right with the world.

We entered the Tafi Atome Welcome Center and paid our fees -- volunteer rates, even though the woman did not believe that we were really volunteers -- and were escorted just a few hundred feet to the back of some houses. Before we even reached the clearing Mona monkeys of all ages and sizes were dropping out of the trees to visit us. The dominant male of the group greeted us first, trying to steal the bag of bananas right out of our guide’s hands. We then spent about a half hour feeding the smaller monkeys as they greeted us on the ground and then decided to use us as jungle gyms to jump on, as well as to jump from one person to another. Katherine was the first to be climbed upon and at one point had monkeys on her shoulders as another was climbing up her legs. It was a wonderful visit and we left there dirty with monkey prints up and down our arms, as well as all over our shirts, and big smiles on our faces.

After a quick wash-up we left Tafe Atome and began our hour drive to our hotel in Wli (pronounced vlee.) It was dark now, but Wisdom drove carefully and very skillfully, avoiding people, goats, dogs and pot holes every few hundred feet. We were warmly greeted by the owner of the Wli Water Heights Hotel and after dropping our bags in our rooms we headed to the dining room. Delicious meals were enjoyed by the three of us, and then showers and
journal time. Our tour has started wonderfully!

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